Antique Car Gas Tanks – There are several reasons why you might want to replace the C3 fuel tank. More typical, the youngest C3 is 36 years old, with a tank damaged by rust and corrosion and leaking. Another reason is that rust and corrosion debris build up inside the tank, causing the fuel filters to clog quickly. Other causes include collision damage or the discovery of the wrong fuel tank during body recovery. The tank we modified for this article was a ’71 that had a major fuel system rust and corrosion problem.
Jeep Products sells three types of fuel tanks for 1968-1982 vehicles. First two: Restore Replacement and Restore Restore Restore Restore Replacement with original supplier logo, O.L. Anderson Company, available for ’68 – ’82 applications. Category 3 is for vehicles upgraded to electronic fuel injection and fits only ’68-’74 models. Additionally, when ordering any “68 -72” tank, it is important to get the exact model year before ordering because, prior to 1973, GM had many different tank configurations. Be especially careful when ordering tanks for 69s, as tanks are not limited to specific engines, there are early model 69 and late 69 designs. If you have any questions, please email or call a Zip Products sales professional prior to purchase.
Antique Car Gas Tanks
We ordered a standard cloning tank from Zip Products to fit any size “70-” 74 (PN GT-399) and cloning fill neck (PN GT-296). We also ordered one of Zipp’s 1968-1974 Corvette Gas Tank Mounting Kits (PN GT-383), which includes fuel tank mounting straps, anti-squeak pads, strap-to-frame mounting bolts, low-support gas tank anti-squeak pads, and a fuel filler cap. Neck bolt. Finally, we ordered a new zip tank pick-up assembly (PN GT-302) and a fuel tank transmitter kit (PN TL-120) to remove or replace the lock ring that holds the transmitter in the tank.
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If we need factory service information on the 71 fuel system, we ordered the 1971 Corvette (PN B-353) service manual from Zip. In general, any intermediate DIYer should have the necessary tools to complete this job. Exceptions are the aforementioned tank sender, a very large pair of slip joint pliers, and a large pry bar needed at the end of the project when installing the tank straps.
1a We moved the tank to the rear of the car on jack stands. The GearWrench crawler was very comfortable to work with and the GearWrench work light allowed for good visibility while working in the evening
01: The first step is to raise the rear of the car in the air on a lift or jack stands. We chose the latter option because it is DIY how to do this job. Next, remove the spare tire and tire carrier. Remove the muffler and other exhaust pieces as needed. Our project car had two Flowmaster muffler/one-piece mid-pipe assemblies, so the entire exhaust system had to be carried up to the center cross member.
(2) Our choice for draining the fuel tank is this “Siphon Pro” kit. Another drainage solution is the “gas taper,” which uses a 12-volt electric pump. Whether you siphon the tank or pump it, keep a fire extinguisher nearby.
Closeup Of A Car Gas Tank With Visible Rusty Stock Photo
02: Next, drain the fuel tank into an appropriately sized gas can. Do this in a well-ventilated area without open flames. 2-A20-B:C or have a dry chemical fire extinguisher nearby. There are many ways to filter a tank. It is very easy to disconnect the hose from the pickup tank and dump the fuel into a bucket. If you have a ’63-81 modified with an electric fuel pump, disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor, point it into a container, turn the key, but don’t start the engine, and the pump will drain the tank. The last way to drain the tank is to use a siphon pump and hose and get the fuel out of the tank. GenTap’s “Siphon Pro” brand markets siphon pump gravity flow transfer hose kits that work well. The company’s “Gas Taper” line consists of cost-effective 12-volt electric transfer pump systems.
3 The tank is not completely empty. Clamp or block the tank outlet hose to prevent fuel from leaking during removal.
03: None of these methods drains the tank, so when you have drained or drained as much gas as possible from the tank, connect or disconnect the tank’s sender. After removing the tank, a small amount of gasoline remaining from the vapor return pipe nipple can be poured into the passenger side of the tank. Finally, to dispose of your spilled fuel, if the gasoline is clean, relatively fresh, and drained into a clean container, place it in another vehicle’s fuel tank. In our case, the fuel was five years old and contaminated with water, rust and corrosion, so we disposed of it in an environmentally responsible manner. How you do this may vary according to local or state laws. We took our bad gas to waste oil recycling.
4a – Fifty year old nuts and bolts can seize or rust. A serious hack like Kano SiliKroil would be the answer.
Weathered Fuel Cap Tank Metal Gas Cover Of A Vintage Car Stock Photo, Picture And Royalty Free Image. Image 125704802
4b There are two of these bolts, one on each side of the rear crossbar of the frame. They have the ends of the gas tank straps on the frame. Remove both.
4c Slide the front ends of the tank straps out of the holes in the fuel tank front support beam.
Push up the 4d tank straps. Once the attached ends are free from the tank flap, pull them out from the back.
04: Now that the fuel tank is drained, spray the tank belt tensioner bolts and tank front support beam member nuts with penetrating oil. Kano Labs makes some great hacks on spray cans labeled “AeroCroil” or “SiliCroil”. Let the infiltrator run for several hours, then loosen the screws that hold the tank strap in place. Remove the rods that drill the front end of each bar from the tank support beam holes. Pull the other end of each strap out through the hole in the rear crosspiece, then pull the straps down and out. Finally, remove one nut on each side of the fuel tank support beam. Loosen the other two nuts, but do not remove them.
There’s A Hole In The Gas Tank!
Since the new C3 is about 40 years old, all the rubber fuel hoses attached to the tank should be replaced. Some tanks have three pipes, two on the right (supply and return steam pipe) and one steam return on the left. Once you’ve removed the hose clamp, if you find a hose that’s difficult to remove, cut it off and use a utility knife to pry the rest apart and roll it out of the tank. Disconnect the fuel gauge wires going to the pickup truck.
Taking out the tank is very easy. The quickest way to do this is to have someone help you. While your helper is holding the tank, remove the remaining two nuts that hold the fuel tank support beam in place. With one person at each end, roll the tank forward until it clears the rear cross member, then lower the tank.
5 Temporarily insert a pair of wooden blocks between the top of the frame rail and the tank flap.
05: One can easily remove the tank. Once you’ve removed the tank straps and two of the four fuel tank support nuts, create a temporary way to hold the tank in place. I used two blocks of wood between the frame rails and tank seams.
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6 With the blocks attached to the tank, remove the remaining two nuts and drop the front tank support beam. Push the tank up slightly, remove the blocks, then tilt the front of the tank down and swing it out of the vehicle.
06: Next, I removed the last support beam nut and the beam itself. Finally, I pushed the tank in with one hand, removed the logs, moved the tank forward a bit, then flipped it down and out.
Now it’s time to bring out your Jeep Products repro fuel tank. Every “68-” 74 size repro tank sits on top of the tank packed with zip included parts: cam lock retaining cam lock, O-ring pickup seal, filler neck gasket and filler neck bolt. Once sitting next to the Zip Tank original, a joy other than the lack of OL. With the Andersen stamp, it remained the same as the original, right down to the evaporative emission system vapor separator bracket. What do you do with an old fuel tank? There was no gas in the mine, so I loaded it into the back of my pickup truck and drove into town
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