Clothes Made From Plastic – Polyester fleece jackets release an average of 1.7 grams of plastic microfibres every time they are washed. Image: Fashion PPS/Zuma Wire/Rex/Shutterstock
More than half of all textiles produced each year contain plastic. Now it is urgent to search for a more sustainable way of dressing the world
Clothes Made From Plastic
I was probably the only time a 93-year-old stole the show on Glastonbury’s Pyramid Stage. Sir David Attenborough had important things to say when he warmed up to Kelly Minogue last month. After showing scenes from Blue Planet 2, the wildlife series that references plastic pollution in sea change, the broadcaster thanked festival-goers and organizers for banning water bottles. “This great fair has become plastic-free,” he cheered. “Thanks thanks!”
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Kylie’s audience had every right to feel good – single-use plastic is a threat to marine life from an oil spill – but many stopped to look at the elastic in the waistbands, the polyester in the t-shirts and the nylon in the shoes. ? The plastic we use is less visible than bottles or straws, but it is no less toxic. Yet somehow we have it so rooted in our destructive society that we hardly notice it, even if it is on our own backs. Now there are moves – at the top and bottom of a complex global supply chain – to do something about it.
“When I started doing this five years ago, the suppliers wouldn’t even show me their recycled clothes or even put them in their bags,” says Kimberly Smith, an American clothing company, Everlane’s production manager. Since his company committed to eliminating all non-recycled, or virgin, plastics from its supply chain, stores and offices by 2021, his job has become a mission to demand more of them. “Now recycled is the first thing they show us,” she adds.
But this mission is also about combating apathy and ignorance among buyers. “There’s a lot of pressure right now to be more educated about issues like water and air pollution, but I think people aren’t as clear as, ‘Oh, you know if your oil or your puffer jacket is virgin oil.’ I am made. ?’ I don’t think people understand,” says Smith, who previously worked at Gap & Levi’s.
Plastic Vs. Natural Clothing. What Are Your Clothes Made Of?
Perhaps the development of synthetic fibers as a way to mimic natural substances – and add smart functionality – helped to hide the plastics we now use. You don’t need to check a label on, say, a water bottle to know what it’s made of. With cloth, the change began slowly. For the first time, synthetic fibers derived from plants, such as rayon, were used where wood pulp was used. In fact, synthetic fibers arrived in the late 1930s with nylon (courtesy of DuPont, the American chemical giant that also made rayon), while polyester was a British invention in the 1940s.
A process called polymerization gave us plastics with countless potential uses, from hoses to dental floss. Melted plastic chips can be spun into strong, light, quick-drying plastic yarn. When it was launched in a storm of publicity, nylon was more expensive than silk. New technology took a prize. The war quickly diverted production to parachutes and tents, and synthetic stockings, or “nylons”, became a currency on the black markets of Europe, but then mass production increased and synthetic fibers made their way around the world. .
Plastics of all kinds were celebrated for their utility and low cost – but also for their versatility. In a 1955 issue of Life magazine, a family was photographed throwing everyday household items into the air, including some made of plastic. “Thowaway Living” was the title. The items pictured “will take 40 hours to clean – except no homeowner needs to bother”, the magazine said. “They are all meant to be thrown away after use.”
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A 1955 photo from Life magazine endorsing ‘caste life’. Photo: Peter Stackpole/LIFE Image Collection via Getty Images
Throwback culture may not be celebrated today, but global forces of trade and commerce mean it has permeated clothing. How often do you wear a t-shirt bought for £4? And what do you do with yours when it’s lost its shape or fallen apart (if it hasn’t already disappeared to the bottom of that same expensive clothes drawer)? A return to using more cotton will reduce the plastic problem, but no fast fashion is truly green; Growing one kg of cotton can take up to 22,500 liters of water in parts of India that are already water-scarce. In addition, there are things that cotton cannot do, such as keeping out rain or removing sweat.
Production of polyester alone has increased tenfold since 1980, to 53.7 million tonnes in 2017, according to data compiled by the Textile Exchange, a US non-profit industry body. Polyester now accounts for 51% of all fiber production, twice that of cotton (production of synthetic fibers overtook cotton in the mid-1990s). That’s a lot of fuel, energy and air miles. Nevertheless, we throw away an estimated 48 million tonnes of all kinds of clothing every year, of which 75 percent end up in landfills or are incinerated. Less than 1% of clothing was recycled into new clothing in 2017.
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And plastic clothing can be uniquely toxic, even if it’s still in use or it’s recycled. A 2016 study by the University of California at Santa Barbara found that polyester fleece jackets release an average of 1.7 grams of plastic microfibers each time they are washed. Older jackets throw more and less than half of the visible fibers through water treatment plants into rivers and oceans. Microbeads of the type used in cosmetics were banned in the UK last year, but microfibres are unlikely to be destructive – and common. A 2016 study by Plymouth University estimated that a six-kilogram load of synthetic clothing can release 700,000 tiny pieces of fiber. Their toxic effects are concentrated when they disrupt food chains, destroy marine life and, in the unfortunate case of unwanted recycling, end up on our dinner plates.
The basic technology needed to make a growing global population more sustainable has been around for decades. “We launched our first recycled polyester fleece in 1993,” says Matt Dwyer, director of materials innovation at US-based outdoor clothing giant Patagonia. The wool is now in the company’s archives and is still a pale yellow-green – it was made from discarded plastic bottles before they separated the green and clear bottles. “I’ve dealt with it and it’s a bit rough now and the quality wasn’t good enough, but that’s not the story anymore,” Dyer added. More than 80% of the synthetic material Patagonia uses is now recycled, and this ratio should be 90% within the next year.
By sorting and processing old plastic into rods and then turning into slivers, recycled fiber manufacturers such as US Bead Unifi, which makes Reprio, a recycled fiber, can turn the slivers back into yarn. Unifi alone has processed more than 16 billion bottles since 2008, and expects to reach 30 billion by 2022. The company supplies brands including Patagonia, as well as Ford, for which it makes seat covers.
Women Addicted Of Sales And Clothes, Wearing Plastic, Recycling Concept Stock Photo By ©vova130555@gmail.com 322356252
Dyer says the myths that persist about recycled materials often become excuses. There is an assumption that there is not enough of it (“There is enough waste to be picked up,” he says), that it is still of low quality and that – crucially, in an industry with tight margins – it is very expensive. “Any business of reasonable size can buy enough recycled material to cover the cost,” adds Dwyer. Perhaps tellingly, the demand from below has not been realized. “That’s another good excuse: ‘My client doesn’t care why should I?'”
Patagonia is now an industry poster child for sustainable fashion and regularly receives calls from other companies from scratch. They all ask the same question: “Where do we begin?” Dwyer advises them first to simply ask the supplier where their goods come from. “The other thing I tell them is that making supply chains traceable and using recycled materials is future-proof, because at some point your customer will care, or worse—it will be legislated and you’ll have to change anyway,” says Dyer. .
Companies are waking up to this future with varying degrees of commitment. Stella McCartney wants to phase out virgin nylon by 2020 and polyester by 2025. In the mass market, Adidas has committed to using recycled polyester in all viable applications by 2024. Meanwhile, brands like Asus and Boho are synonymous. Fast fashion, has set up its stalls – or, at least, stalls in its stores. Asos has expanded its eco-edit since launching in 2010. To qualify, clothing must contain at least 50% “sustainable” fibres, including recycled plastic. Last month, Boho launched For the Future, the brand’s first recycled range (“Dress well and do
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