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Traditional Product Photography Replacements – Worried about the rising cost of film photography? Here are some ways to deal with it https://i0.wp.com//wp-content/uploads/2021/11/film-price-2.jpg?fit=2000%2C1125&ssl=1 2000 1125 James Tocchio James Tocchio https:/ /t.co/2000 //i0.wp.com//wp-content/uploads/2020/01/james-square.jpg?fit=96%2C96&ssl=1 November 2021 November 2, 2021

Throughout 2020 and 2021, Ilford and Kodak have increased their film prices across the board, in some cases using price increases of up to 20% per roll. As we approach the end of 2021, this trend doesn’t seem to be ending or reversing anytime soon, as news recently surfaced that Kodak will be raising prices again next year. Let’s be honest – when I started

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In 2014, a roll of Kodak Portra 400 cost $6.99 and today the same roll costs $12.49. Equally disappointing, the film is often sold due to (I think?) a lack of raw materials fueled by (I think?) an epidemic.

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These high costs and the unusual availability of film coming into the new year lead me to predict that 2022 will be the most expensive year for film photographers (not by a long shot).

In my never-ending quest to add value to your hobby, I’ve sweated the details and come up with five simple and effective ways to reduce the cost burden for those of us who shoot film. Here we are; Here are some easy-to-use cost-cutting techniques to keep the movie dream alive despite recent and upcoming price increases.

Bulk loading is a “trick” that frugal photographers have been using for decades, but here’s a crash course for those who don’t know the terms or what they mean. Instead of buying 24 or 36 exposure rolls of 35mm film, we buy one large 100ft roll of the same film and load it into special reusable film cartridges. By doing so, we were able to effectively reduce the cost of each roll of film (up to 45% in some cases). A number of black and white films are available to buy in 100ft rolls, including the widely popular Ilford HP5 Plus and Kodak Tri-X, as well as cheaper alternatives.

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In order to bulk upload your film you will need to purchase some special (though inexpensive) tools. Here’s what you need to start bulk uploading your movie. I have used these products myself, and they are recommended.

The bulk upload process is simple. I will not fully teach the process here. There are complete articles and YouTube videos on how to do it elsewhere. But in short – you load a lot of film into your film loader in broad daylight in total darkness. Then, scotch tape the end of the film from the lunch loader onto a spool from one of your reusable cans. Place the canister in the bulk loader, engage the crank, and crank it the appropriate times to blend the desired length of film into the canister. Remove the canister, snap the film, load it into your camera… profit!

Disadvantages of bulk uploading a movie? Yes, there are others! We sacrifice our time for money. It doesn’t take long to put the film in the canister, but it does take a while. You’ll have to decide if the trade-off is worth it (maybe prepare your film cans for other time-wasting activities like watching YouTube?) Another challenge – mass-loaded tapes don’t encode DX, so they’re limited cameras with manual ISO selection should only be used [If don’t know what ISO is, go here!]. Finally, unless you’re a master of bulk loading, chances are you’ll get small leaks or wasted rolls due to user error when loading your film into your cans. These errors will disappear with time.

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Among the five suggestions made in this article, this may be the most controversial. But it works. Is it possible to shoot small films to save money?

What I’m saying is slow down, take your time, think about your pictures. When you hold the camera up to your eye and your finger gently rotates that shutter release button, take a second to look at what you see in the viewfinder and visualize it as the final exposure. Is there anything? Is there anything worth burning on film within that frame? Can you take what you see in the viewfinder and frame and hang it on the wall?

Many of you have already done this, I’m sure. But some of you probably don’t (I get it – you have a Nikon F5 and you can’t resist 8 FPS burst mode). But this process of analyzing studio, real-time, pre-fire footage is how I got my hit rate, the number of “sound shots” per roll of film, up from somewhere around three over the past few years. There are (perhaps) twelve or fifteen “watchmen” per roll. By being overly critical of my photography, questioning my shooting impulse, and only shooting when I saw an interesting shot in the viewfinder, my photography improved and (albeit unintentionally. ) I shot less film. I wasted and wasted. Very little money.

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This is another obvious solution for those of us who have been shooting film for longer than a few years, but developing and scanning your film has always been cheaper than shipping it. .

There will be film beginners who read this tip and already say, “I can’t do that.” Let me ease your worries. You can do it. easy If you can read numbers, use your hands to hold things, and pour liquids, you can do it. You can develop and scan your film.

I wrote an article about all the gear you need to develop your film at home, and you can read that article here. I have also written an article (and show a video tutorial) on how to develop your film step by step. This should help you on your way to creating your own movie.

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Scanning is another matter, but equally easy. All you need is a scanner and a computer. If you’re shopping for a dedicated film camera, buy this one. There are many questions about “Which scanner should I buy?” on Reddit and Facebook. Don’t read tips that don’t make sense in response. Threads available on those platforms. They will just confuse you. Just spend money and buy this scanner. Trust me. I’ve used them all and they are the perfect balance of cost, usability, speed, and performance for anyone looking to scan 35mm rolls of film.

Developing and scanning at home has obvious problems. You need to buy and store growing chemicals. You’ll need to buy developing equipment and a scanner up front, and you won’t see the savings until you’ve developed more than a dozen rolls of film. And finally, you need to trade your time for money. The development and scanning can take a long time. Most of us dedicate half a day to the process once we have a few rolls ready to go. It’s a pain in the ass, well illustrated when one of my writers snaps and writes a full blurb about scanning. And finally, if we could all develop and scan our own film, many small businesses (photo labs) would go out of business (which would be sad, because the labs that exist today do a great job).

But if cost is your biggest concern, developing and scanning at home is the most cost-effective way to capture film.

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A few years ago, I wrote an article titled How to Cheat in Film Photography. In that article I talked about tips and tricks I’ve learned over the years that have helped me avoid common mistakes and improve the overall quality of my filmmaking. One of the suggestions was to use a modern film camera, and I repeat that advice here as a way to keep costs down.

Old film cameras look great. Pentax K1000, Minolta SRT series, Leica M3s and M2s and even M4s – they are good looking cameras and people love them (and I know this, because people who love them won’t stop telling us). But for all their old-world appeal and classic functionality, these cameras are difficult to use and require expert hands. They don’t have a light meter or auto exposure or auto focus, or they lack all and more. They do not help the photographer in any way, and in the hands of an amateur or someone who does not always focus on photos (say we are at the zoo with our children on a windy day) the result is a scroll. Shooting film with any of these “legendary” cameras will be riddled with missed focus, bad exposure, and wasted images.

Compare these cameras to any basic 35mm SLR camera from the late 1990s or early 2000s and there is no contest. A $50 Minolta Maxxum 5 or Canon Eos Rebel will make better photos than a Leica M3 in the hands of average users, and will ask for less.

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